Today was pretty uneventful. It makes for a boring blog, but man I needed the time to rest, research, and explore. We took a 2 hour train ride to Paris, switched stations, then another 2 hour train ride to Caen, Normandy. We had some good food, walked around, did some planning for next week, and called it a day.
Paris
In the hour we spent in Paris, I determined that it is a city I have no interest in visiting. Maybe some day, but it sure feels like all of the worst parts about international tourism smashed together. We only saw the streets between stations though, so what do I know. Except that it’s filthy. Bleh.
The French
Caen however, is wonderful. It’s beautiful, clean, and the people are extremely friendly. I can’t remember if I mentioned it already, but the French get a bad rap for being extra rude to tourists, particularly Americans. In my research, one of the top cultural norms to adhere to was always greeting people with “Bonjour” and always thanking them for speaking with “Merci”. Super important. We’ve found that to be true! When we greet people, they immediately hear our accent and know that we probably don’t speak French (something they should know) and that we are aware of the cultural expectation. They then go into the conversation with a much better attitude. It might seem like an obvious thing, but I’ve already met 2 other groups of Americans here, both of which just walked up to people and began the conversation with a question in English. It’s presumptuous, reveals your expectations, and shows that you didn’t research the culture before you came. No wonder they aren’t fond of us. I can honestly say though, I’ve had nothing but pleasant interactions with French people, even if they didn’t speak English. I’ll try not to gag while I say it… I think I like France.
Boring stuff
I got some planning done for next week, which is great. I still have 6 unscheduled days that I probably need to find a place to sleep. Amsterdam (meeting up with my sister), Arnhem (a big airborne paratrooper battle), and Bastogne (Germany’s last victory) are all on the list. I’d like to swing by Luxembourg too if I get the chance, since it’s only a few miles from Bastogne.
Taste of Heaven
I finally got to eat some doner kebab today! Well, actually just the meat. It’s probably the thing I was most excited for on this trip. I’m not even kidding. It’s a dish I’ve only found in Albuquerque in the US, which is an absolute tragedy. It’s the most heavenly dish on the planet. If there’s a feast at the Second Coming of Christ, it will be doner kebab. What is it, you ask? Imagine stacking slabs of thinly sliced meat of all kinds onto a giant spike, then rotisserie roasting the spike. You shave off the crispy outside with a cheese grater, add some garlic aioli sauce, throw on some cabbage, and a little bit of who-knows-what, then there you have it. God’s second best gift to mankind. Ron Swanson approved.
Oh! And the croissants here? Absolutely amazing. I don’t know what they do different, but they’re so much better here. Also, I had a chocolate chip muffin. Except the muffin tasted like bread — no sweetness whatsoever. It was weird but very tasty.
Being in Caen
I’m not sure what all is going on in Caen, but I can tell it’s a city of history. William the Conqueror apparently had his castle here 1000 years ago; you can thank him for invading England and adding French words to our language. There are several cathedrals that are obviously amazing, but I have no idea what stories they hold. The city was also a vital crossroads in the D-Day invasion, so a massive battle was fought here in 1944, which we’ll learn more about tomorrow.
You can really tell how the war affected people here. Crazy that it happened 85 years ago. There are memorials in France everywhere. One of the most striking differences between France and England is that France lacks a lot of old, intricately-designed buildings. There are lots of buildings and homes from the 1950s onwards because nearly everything was destroyed in WWII. It’s terribly sad, and you can tell that even today, the war changed and impacts the nation.
Tomato
That’s it for today. We’ve got a big, big day tomorrow. We’re doing something I’ve wanted to do for about 15 years: see the D-Day beaches.