It dawned on me this afternoon that tomorrow will be two weeks since I got to Europe. In some ways, it feels like forever since I first went to the Air Museum at Duxford. Yet in others, I can’t believe that two weeks have already gone by. I miss my cats, I miss my family, but I could imagine myself staying here for a really long time. I’m excited for when I’ll be able to share it with Valerie.
Parting ways
I parted ways with Grandpa and Grandma this morning in Caen. Sounds like they had a bit of trouble with their connection, but my cousin Liz sent a picture just a little bit ago, letting me know that they made it okay. It was sad to say goodbye, but I don’t think that the pace that I want to go at for the next few days would have been easy for them.
Bayeux
The first thing I did today was head to the town of Bayeux to check out the cathedral and museum they have there. The town is a tourist base for the D-Day beaches, so there are tons of Americans and Brits here too. I spent a few hours in the WWII museum, which told me a lot of new information about the days following the D-Day landings. I learned about the struggles that the Allies had trying to gain a solid foothold for two months after D-Day. The ferocity of the German defense surprised me; I thought they were pretty weak and unprepared by the time the invasion began.
The museum contained several exhibits showing the destruction the towns in Normandy faced when the Allies invaded. Caen in particular was leveled because of stiff German defenses, but the Allies were pleased to find that William the Conqueror’s Abbeys and Castle had not been flattened. The museum made it obvious that the Allies really struggled with the fact that they were destroying important historical landmarks.
I also learned that Bayeux was the first town the Allies liberated in France. It was one of the only places they didn’t have to bomb, so it was spared from the destruction that other cities and villages in the area faced. That meant that its beautiful medieval cathedral was perfectly preserved. Though I’m nearing 10 cathedrals on this trip already, they never cease to amaze me with their beauty and intricacy. Even if I don’t understand the symbolism, it’s obvious that every inch of those buildings was designed thoughtfully in worship.
Carentan
After time in Bayeux, I headed to the village of Carentan. If you recognize that name, it’s probably because you’ve seen it in the show Band of Brothers. Carentan was a city that was an important communication center between Utah and Omaha beaches. The 101st Airborne Division captured the town, then defended it against a forceful German counterattack. The small town is very cognizant of that history and has plenty of commemorative plaques around the town. The cathedral there also has a special stained-glass window to commemorate the event.
Some of the information boards had old photos from around the town. I decided to check one out! Some of the buildings are definitely different, but I promise the photos are the same street corner.
Le supper
I finished up my evening by heading back to Caen for a meal at a French bistro I’ve had my eye on all weekend. I had no idea what I ordered (can’t read French). It turned out to be steak and homemade fries. Apparently medium steak in France would be considered rare steak in the US. It was still delicious. Sadly, I didn’t have time to try the crème brûlée before my train, so I guess I’ll have to come back to France someday. Bummer.
The challenge
D-Day and the Battle of Normandy are far bigger and more important than I realized. Looking back on history, it seems obvious that the Allies were going to win from the moment they stepped foot on continental Europe. What I’ve learned here though, is that victory was far from certain back when it was happening. There was a very real possibility that the Germans would push the Allies right back out of Europe. I’ve always assumed that as soon as the Allies landed, it was over for Germany. It’s obvious from the battle scars and the landscape and the stories of the people here that that was far from the case. There was still plenty of fight left in the Germans and much blood left to be shed.
We’re very spoiled in our country, never having to look terror in the eye like most other nations have. All of our conflicts are far away, safe to remain political debates. Perhaps that’s made us ignorant in a dangerous way. My ancestors moved frequently over the centuries because of their faith, devout pacifism, and the constant threat of being forced to act against both of those. Moving isn’t something we’ve had to do for 150 years. We’re forgetting where we came from and more importantly, why we are where we are at now. It’s something that will take conscious effort to not lose. I think that’s why I value family history so much. Other peoples and countries have cathedrals and battle scars to remind them of their past. What we have is the stories of our family. How do we ensure that they don’t fade away? That’s a question I believe we need to live by.
Next up
Tomorrow I head to Amsterdam. I have no idea what I’m doing after I get there. My sister will also be arriving in Amsterdam in the morning. I’m glad she’s got this opportunity and I’m looking forward to sharing a little bit of it with her.
I’ll end with a quote this time.
“Get it all on record now – get the films – get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened.” — Dwight D. Eisenhower